Two Weeks in Perfect Paradise
Since the Covid-19 lockdown, it’s been months since we left New York. Feeling ready to go, my Mum and I opted for a change.
Our destination of choice was beautiful Barbados. On this small Caribbean island, to date, 291 cases were reported, 269 recovered and 7 deaths. Carefully observing and walking around, safety measures are in place and respected by citizens and visitors, alike. It feels safe here. In comparison to my home country and in the words of the late United Nations Secretary General, Kofi Annan, Barbados “punches above its weight”. The Prime Minister of Barbados, Mia Amor Mottley has done quite well.
Prior to the trip, we read local newspapers including The Nation News, Barbados Advocate and Barbados Today to follow local updates as things are constantly evolving during the pandemic. To get things going, we took a mandatory PCR test 72 hours prior to travel at Midtown New York Doctors Urgent Care, 205 Lexington Avenue in Manhattan. 48 hours later, we received negative results. It was time to book an Uber which drove us to JetBlue, Terminal 5 at JFK around 6 am. Two hours later, we were airborne. JetBlue provided good customer service and followed health and safety procedures. All passengers were required to wear masks throughout the flight only to be removed upon an offering of light snacks and beverages on the short 4 hour flight to Grantley Adams International Airport (BGI).
Upon arrival disembarking via a ramp, passengers were transported, via a bus, to a designated area where people who had taken the PCR test went left and those who did not went right. With negative test papers in hand, a registered health official did an inspection. From there, we proceeded to a sanitising station and received a ‘Welcome to Barbados’ wristlet and an accommodation/villa wristlet which declared you’re allowed in the country and identified your temporary status. Following this, you clear immigration. Once completed, time to sanitise your hands again. After that, note that you’ll be waiting in a queue for about half an hour where a health interview is conducted and you are advised when your next test is due and given options as to where you may take it. Soon enough, you can finally go to the baggage claim. Remember to stock up on alcohol at the airport inbound duty free shop, as you’ll be doing a mandatory 2/3 day quarantine until you’ve secured the results of your second test.
On Wednesday morning, two Ministry of Health & Wellness monitors arrived at our accommodation, the luxury oceanfront Sea Spray Villa in Half Moon Fort, St Lucy (photographed below) to verify our credentials and ensure that the second test had been scheduled. Luckily, our property manager, Joel Parris arranged this for us. Thus, we spent the day drinking coconut water and Mount Gay silver rum along with watching Champions League football matches as we couldn’t leave the accommodation just yet.
First text, I received on Thursday morning was from our government approved taxi which transported us to the The Maurice Byer Polyclinic. We arrived at 9:55am to find a small queue with three ladies. After waiting 30 minutes, Nurse Ramsey appeared and announced names to confirm attendance, verified identification and checked our temperatures. About 30 minutes later, Dr. Heywood conducted the slightly intrusive, yet manageable, Covid-19 test. By the time you counted to 5, the test was over. Our taxi driver waited and returned us to Sea Spray Villa. For the rest of the day, we drank Banks beer, ate Chefette rotis and watched Europa League football matches given that we were still in mandatory quarantine.
The following day in just under 24 hours, we received negative results. Finally free; happy Friday to us! We ate local cuisine including salad, macaroni pie and flying fish for lunch cooked by our cousin, Annette Ifill at Kellman’s Moontown in St Lucy. Then we drove around the island to see family. Flowing us into the evening, we enjoyed steamed vegetables and grilled marlin at Marcy’s Karaoke Bar in Weston, St James.
Sleeping in on Saturday, we woke up just in time for a traditional lunch of breadfruit, pudding and souse. Of course, I had to drink a Pine Hill Dairy passion fruit drink in Clinketts, St Lucy. Then the beach was calling us to Mullins, St Peter. For evening fun, we headed to Royal Westmoreland Beach Bar Barbados where cocktails comprised of a glass of champagne and a coconut martini thanks to our attentive and friendly server, Shaquon. We also conversed about Bajan history with the polite and professional manager, Paul Harper. For dinner, we ventured to my Mum’s childhood friend, Donna at Hannah’s, St Lucy.
Sunday was a late start. Eventually, we enjoyed a wonderful lunch at The Fish Pot. All elements from champagne, appetisers and savoury salads to white wine and rosé were lovely. Afterwards, we visited Six Men’s, St Peter where a neighbourhood community event sponsored by Braddy’s Bar (owned by family friends) and others was taking place and we enjoyed watching my soon to be adopted sister frolicking with her brother in the clear waters.
Monday was special as the 246 island celebrated its 54th Independence Day! I dressed in yellow (sand), blue (sky and sea) and black (broken trident) to represent the colours and symbol of the flag. Although we were working and attending zoom meetings, we found a way to fete. The national dish featuring coucou and flying fish made for an excellent lunch. There was even time for an afternoon swim. Throughout the day, we listened to music by Alison Hinds, Kimberely Iniss, Lil Rick, Rupee, Edwin Yearwood, Krosfyah, Hypasounds, Sir Emile Straker, the Honourable Mighty Gabby and Square One. For a delicious dinner, we ate salad, macaroni pie, rice & peas and octopus cooked by our cousin, Annette Ifill at Moontown.
Tuesday was an adventure strolling through the city centre of Bridgetown. I loved being introduced, by my Mum, to Broad Street, Swan Street and Roebuck Street. My Mum stopped for a brief moment and bought some of her childhood favourite snacks including golden apples, dounce and starfruit. Lots of people were about buying local tropical fruits and cool items everywhere. From there, we went to to eat steam vegetables and king fish along with a Banks beer at the Fisherman’s Pub, Speightstown, St Peter. This was where I had the privilege to be introduced by my Mum to the fashionable, Mr Andy ‘Junior’ Armstrong (whom she knew from her days at Alexandra School). Talk about a real treat!
The Limegrove Lifestyle Centre caught my attention on Wednesday. There are a variety of cafes, restaurants and stores to check out across three levels including a cinema. After hours of going to every establishment, my favourites were Vilebrequin, SeaReinas and the Rum Stop. Finally, I was able to have a nice salad topped with flying fish. That’s all a girl needs in life along with good company to carry a great conversation. While walking around, Limegrove staff were decorating for the holidays, getting into the Christmas spirit.
Thursday was a relaxing day. The morning was busy in terms of work. During the afternoon, my Mum’s best friend of 50 years, John Husbands (aka Baker/Uncle John’s Kitchen) came over and made a lunch of coucou and steamed mackerel. We celebrated their reunion and caught up on life. Later, they watched me chase sunsets. Friday was all about the fish. We visited Bridgetown Public Fish Market. Accompanied by Uncle John, we were given what felt like a royal tour. We were able to see full circle how the market functions. From boats coming in and going out, declaring items to fish being weighed, gutted, cleaned and cut for selling. The fisherman were chill. The security were courteous. The fish cleaners are real craftsmen. It was a pleasure to learn and watch the process. I’ll definitely go again sometime. Before leaving, we secured flying fish and a couple small dolphins (mahi mahi) from Donna, the wife of my Mum’s late cousin, David.
Thereafter, we went to Sea Shed Barbados. Mostly because Mullins beach is one of the best and cool music sets the mood so you don’t need to go anywhere else. Bollinger champagne paired with a lobster cocktail and the king crab salad, which I highly recommend was an amazing lunch. Vegetables and seafood are the way forward or at least that’s my style. To kick off the evening, we drank birthday cocktails at The Red Door Lounge, located on 2nd Street in Holetown. Massive thanks to Jamar Beckles who is the best bartender and cocktail mixologist in Barbados.
On Saturday, we drove through all 11 eleven parishes. Starting in the north west, we ended up in the south east at a breathtaking beach called Shark Hole in St Philip where turquoise water transcends into a mix of blue hues forming a cute small cove/inlet. Continuing beach hopping, we headed to La Cabane, a restaurant with an upbeat Mediterranean style and fusion cuisine. The flying fish wrap went nicely with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc, a side of sea breeze and sunshine. Adjacent to the restaurant is the best beach - Batts Rock. We were even lucky enough to see a family of green monkeys out for a stroll or should I say climb. For fine dining, we ate an exquisite dinner at Champers restaurant. Seated with an oceanfront view and soft classical music, along with watching a school of fish playing in the waves. It was the perfect end to the night.
Sunday, we invited a small gathering of family and close friends to celebrate me at our villa. Monday prior to our departure was absolutely spectacular. We spent the day drinking champagne and seafood bites at Sea Shed Barbados, the place to be. Loved it. The evening was spent at my favourite restaurant on the island, Fish Pot. Special thank you to our awesome server, Crystal and polite and friendly manager, Paul Edwards who was well versed in motorsport history as well as Bajan and British culture.
Barbados has such a welcoming vibe. Everywhere you go, you can make a friend. It’s because the local people are very warm and inviting. Happy times from the youth to millennials to the elderly. They honour their country and are proud to educate you about their culture and acquire knowledge from you too. It’s a two for one vibe. Barbados lives up to and exemplifies its’ motto - Pride and Industry. A destination that should be on your list.
All photos in this article by Niya Sinckler or Nan Austin.